Thoughts: The Danger of Calling Out Restaurants On Twitter
Today, Sprudge has published some horrific info about the Colombia Coffee of Excellence competition. This is one of the most important stories that’s ever broken in the coffee world, and I have absolutely nothing I can say about it that hasn’t been said.
But something else happened today as well:
This was in response to Tom Colicchio’s new restaurant using Starbucks Via new instant flavored coffees as a companion to a luncheon. Which seemed to be a promotional thing. To which Tom replied, “we use la colombe at Riverpark.”
Mr. Colicchio’s capitalization and grammar seems to a bit Internet Casual, but this factors into the story later. Let’s remember that the only thing he’s capitalized so far is his own name. Mr. White suggests maybe a coffee menu upgrade, like the one at Eleven Madison Park.
Mr. Colicchio then states, “we serve stumptown at craft and Colicchio & sons maybe you should get your facts straight.”
To which Mike White asks, “I’m aware. Why stop there? Serve it at Riverpark too!”
To which Tom lays out:
Wow.
Mr. Colicchio ends it with, “la colombe does a proprietary roast and blend for us we think it is good.”
Now most industry folks will know why Tom Colicchio using La Colombe is something to avoid — Todd Carmichael is a muckraker, a shit-starter (I’ve been recently called a polemicist myself), and has sort of blacklisted himself from the praise train among other industry folks. Also, (debatable, I suppose), Stumptown’s coffee offerings are just a million times better.
But this is the inherent danger in trying to build bridges and create better coffee service in the restaurant industry. Trying to be candid with Tom, and calling him out on a bullshit move (i.e. promoting flavored instant coffee), Mike may have created a tension between coffee and one of the biggest celebrity chefs out there.
Tom’s work on Top Chef has made him a hero of mine. I’ve never tasted his food, but his work as a critic puts him up there with Roger Ebert for me. I’m not a big Ebert reader, but one thing is true between those two men: they have no apologies for stating their well thought out, honest, and straightforward opinions.
That being said (sorry Larry David), Colicchio’s capitalized “Dick” comment is frightening. Is he able to dish out criticisms (pun!) and not choke them down (double entendre!). Has Mike White challenged Tom to better himself, or driven a wedge between these two men?
Does a Twitter insult actually count? What was Tom’s intended tone?
Who knows (intentional period! not a question!).
What I do know is that we need to create a better dialogue between coffee folks and food folks. I do know that I’m really tired of sub-par espresso at the end of a meal, and a beautiful shot would finish every meal perfectly. We don’t need more hostility between coffee and restaurants, but how else are we supposed to engage on a base level? It’s like the game is rigged.
Closing thoughts: how much money does Starbucks have to pay Tom Colicchio to get him to feature flavored instant coffee during a luncheon? As much as Diet Coke?
I’m sorry Tom. That was pretty low. But if we’re going to respect your taste as a judge and critic, you need to separate yourself from corporate shills.
It’s not like Jim Gaffigan and Michael Ian Black give soda recommendations for a living.
Also, I’d clearly like to point out that I’m perfectly in a situation to judge Tom Colicchio’s actions, due to the fact that I am entirely uninformed about the restaurant industry, and have a blog on the Internet. At least we have one final answer from Tom himself:
Ah. So Mike White is a proper Dick. Good to know.
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